Tim G. reviewed on 12/1/2014 + 2 more book reviews

My exposure to surfing is only that of a spectator. That said, I really enjoyed this book. It goes off on wonderful natural history and indigenous people tangents yet always returns to its center which is the allure of surfing the world's biggest, most powerful waves. Die hard surfers will love this book for its historical breadth and depth and it ability to probe the psyches of those who seek outlandish big wave surfing venues the world over.

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