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The Rough Guide to Vancouver 1 (Rough Guide Mini Guides)
The Rough Guide to Vancouver 1 - Rough Guide Mini Guides Author:Tim Jepson INTRODUCTION Vancouver is one of the world?s most beautiful cities. Surrounded by water against a spectacular backdrop of mountain peaks, it is an outdoor-lover?s paradise, and locals barely have to move to take advantage of the countless recreational opportunities afforded ? whether that?s sailing or swimming in crystal-clear English Bay, biki... more »ng or rollerblading in vast Stanley Park, or wandering through the forests and canyons in the northern part of town. Vancouver?s 1.9 million residents exploit this spectacular natural setting to the hilt, and when they tire of the immediate region can travel a short distance to the unimaginably vast wilderness of the BC interior. As well, the city has plenty contributing to a cultured atmosphere: top-notch museums, superb restaurants ? arguably the best in North America after New York and San Francisco ? countless cafés, great parks and gardens, and any number of hip bars and clubs. Summer and winter it?s all hedonism and healthy living, typically West Coast obsessions that spill over into its sophisticated arts and culture. Vancouver claims a world-class museum and symphony orchestra, as well as opera, theatre and dance companies at the cutting edge of contemporary arts. Festivals proliferate throughout its mild, if occasionally rain-soaked summer, and numerous music venues provide a hotbed for up-and-coming rock bands and a burgeoning jazz scene. Not all is devoted to pleasure here, however. Business growth continues apace in Canada?s third largest city, much of its prosperity stemming from a port that handles more dry tonnage than the West Coast ports of Seattle, Tacoma, Portland, San Francisco and San Diego put together. The port in turn owes its prominence to Vancouver?s much-trumpeted position as a gateway to the Far East, and its increasingly pivotal role in the new global market of the Pacific Rim. Links across the Pacific, however, are nothing new. Much of the city?s earliest immigration focused on Vancouver?s extraordinary Chinatown, just one of a number of ethnic enclaves ? Italian, Greek, Indian and Japanese in particular ? which lend the city a refreshingly down-to-earth quality that belies its sleek, modern reputation. So too do the city?s semi-derelict eastern districts, whose down-and-out population is shockingly at odds with those pursuing glitzy lifestyles in the lush residential neighbourhoods. Low rents and Vancouver?s cosmopolitan young have nurtured an unexpected counterculture, distinguished by secondhand shops, avant-garde galleries, and hip bars and clubs. The city?s vibrant feel is catching, its growth and energy almost palpable as you walk the streets. In just five years, between 1987 and 1992, the city?s population increased by an extraordinary seventeen percent, and it remains Canada?s fastest-growing city: over the next few years it?s expected to grow by as much as fifty percent. In response, the downtown area is spreading, and those older, run-down districts are among the first to feel gentrification?s effect. On the whole, real estate in Vancouver is now more expensive than Toronto. In addition to new residents, film and TV production companies have discovered the city?s riches, making it North America?s largest such production centre after Los Angeles and New York; The X-Files is just the most famous programme to be made here. Yet, in the peculiar way that seems second nature to Canadians, the changes are being handled in a manner that?s enhancing rather than compromising all the city has to offer. Although there?s plenty to occupy you here, you should also aim to visit Victoria, easily reached by ferry or seaplane. An eminently charming old town ? albeit one that slightly overplays its ersatz Englishness ? it has enough sights and interest to merit an overnight stay. If the outdoors is more your thing, Vancouver is perfectly placed for excursions into the Coast Mountains to the north, notably the peaks near the year-round ski and activities-laden resort of Whistler.« less