A new role for the wine critic
Until the 1970s, wine criticism was usually complementary to the production or trade of wine. The conflict of interest that might ensue from this close relationship was accepted by consumers, as they consulted wine reviews to gain an introduction to the world of wine, and not necessarily for advice on getting good value for their money. Hence, before Robert Parker, wine critics almost always had some link to the production or trade of wines.
Two wine critics were particularly influential in inspiring and defining Robert Parker:
- Robert Lawrence Balzer's charisma inspired Parker. Like his contemporaries, Balzer rarely wrote negative statements about wines. He even once published a book under his name that had actually been written by wine grower Paul Masson. However, Balzer remains known among wine enthusiasts for two contributions: he was the first to organize a blind tasting (before the famous Judgement of Paris wine competition]); and for the empathy and love with which he discussed wine.
- Robert Finigan was Parker's forerunner in consumer-oriented wine reviewing. In the monthly Robert Finigan's Private Guide to Wine, launched in 1972, Finigan offered consumer-oriented, independent wine criticism, just as Parker did after him. Finigan helped consumers make decisions by developing standard evaluation criteria; his qualitative comments were straightforward and understandable, and each wine was ranked on a quality scale (exceptional, above average, average, below average). To maintain his independence, Finigan purchased all his wines in retail stores, and always blind-tasted them.
Parker is a consumer advocate who admires Ralph Nader and has been critical of most wine critics, who traditionally have been part of the wine industry and have had vested interests. According to statements Parker has made in his own publications and to the press, he considers his commitment to be to his readers, rather than to producers, and he believes that a producer’s reputation and prestige is unimportant compared to the wine in the glass.
According to Mike Steinberger, Parker has inadvertently made becoming a wine critic in the future almost impossible, since...partly due to the success of his scoring system...it is now prohibitively expensive to taste the very wines one should criticize. If it behooves a critic to understand, say, Lafite 1982, 2000, 2003, and 2005 before assessing the latest vintage, the critic must drink wine worth tens of thousands of dollars before they can begin the review. This was not true when Steinberger became a connoisseur in the 1970s.
Parker's 100-point rating system
One of the most influential and controversial features of Parker's wine criticism is his 100-point rating system, which he popularized in conjunction with his friend Victor Morgenroth. Parker designed the system to counter what he believed to be confusing or inflated ratings by other wine writers...many of whom he accused of a conflict of interest, as they often had a financial interest in the wines they rated. The scale, now widely imitated in other publications (such as
Wine Spectator), ranks wine on a scale from 50 to 100 points based upon the wine's color and appearance, aroma and bouquet, flavor and finish, and overall quality level or potential. Therefore, 51 rather than 100 different ratings are possible. Although some critics, such as Jancis Robinson, argue that numerical rating systems are questionable...given the subjectivity of wine tasting and the variance in scores that a wine's age and the circumstances of tasting can cause...similar 100-point scoring systems are widely used by American reviewers. Many British reviewers, such as Jancis Robinson and Clive Coates, still prefer a 20-point system.
Retailers in North America often mark wines with Parker's point scores, using printed cards attached to the shelves. Large numbers of consumers, collectors, and investors, especially in the increasingly important United States wine market, make their purchasing decisions based on Parker's scores. Parker cautions buyers that they should read the tasting notes to determine whether or not the wine is made in a style they will like; he states on his website:
Scores, however, do not reveal the important facts about a wine. The written commentary that accompanies the ratings is a better source of information regarding the wine's style and personality, its relative quality vis-à-vis its peers, and its value and aging potential than any score could ever indicate.—Robert M. Parker, Jr.The Wine Advocate Rating System (emphasis in original)
No scoring system is perfect, but a system that provides for flexibility in scores, if applied by the same taster without prejudice, can quantify different levels of wine quality and provide the reader with one professional's judgment. However, there can never be any substitute for your own palate nor any better education than tasting the wine yourself.—Robert M. Parker, Jr.The Wine Advocate Rating System (emphasis in original)
Parker argues that he scores wines on how much pleasure they give him. He, and others, have said that it is the obscurity, corruption, and other problems of the appellation system that made his consumer-oriented approach necessary. For example, the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 was based entirely upon the château's reputation and trading price in 1855. However, since then many châteaux sold much of their vineyards; others bought additional vineyards far away. The original winemakers are long dead. Parker says this created injustice for consumers, because the traditional classifications cause mediocre wine to be sold at too high a price, and good wine to be sold at too low a price. He says of the 1855 classifications, "At most, these classificiations should be regarded by both the wine connoisseur and novice as informational items of historical significance only."
Parker has admitted that emotions do matter, contrary to the seeming objectivity of the 100 point scale: "I really think probably the only difference between a 96-, 97-, 98-, 99-, and 100-point wine is really the emotion of the moment."
Parker is considered an unusually fast taster, and during an initial assessment he may keep a wine in his mouth for four or five seconds before determining whether it is potentially a wine of 80 points or above, or below. Mediocre wines will then be dismissed while those with potential are tasted twice or three times in succession before the final score is determined. This philosophy, combined with mammoth tastings in which Parker will run through between 50 and 100 wines in quick succession, have led critics to conclude that, in such tastings, the only things that can stand out are excessive levels of oak and alcohol. These critics claim that this tasting philosophy causes fundamental chemical flaws in a wine tend to be seen as positives, as they help a wine stand out among the scores of wines given a five-second evaluation in quick succession. In fact, over time, Parker has shown a pronounced affinity for wines displaying high levels of brettanomyces and volatile acidity. This has been derided as a "smelling salt effect" from Parker's tasting and evaluation methods.
Impact on the supply: the "Parkerization" of wine
Parker's impact on the style of fine wines has generated controversy. Parker is highly critical of "those who make 'industrial wines with little flavor and no authenticity'" and he believes that there are still undiscovered regions and wines that can successfully challenge the wine establishment. Critics such as Golo Weber claim that Parker likes less-acidic, riper wines with significant amounts of oak, alcohol, and extract. This supposed "Parker taste" may be less the result of Parker's own preferences than of a trend initiated by Émile Peynaud, the French oenologist and father of the so called "international wines." In the 1970s, winemakers avoided the late harvests, when the grapes were mature, in order to avoid the risks of end-of-season rains. Peynaud proposed that winemakers should wait to harvest until the grape was fully mature, or even over-mature. He also insisted on control of malolactic fermentation through the use of stainless steel vessels.
This new approach led to changes in viticulture and winemaking practices, such as reducing yield by green harvesting, harvesting grapes as late as possible for maximum ripeness, not filtering the wine, and using new techniques...such as microoxygenation...to soften tannins. These widespread changes in technique have been called "Parkerization," also sometimes known as "The International Style," and have led to fear of a homogenization of wine styles around the world as Parker's "tastes are irrevocably changing the way some French wines are made," according to the BBC's Caroline Wyatt. Indeed, certain low-producing "boutique" wineries, among others, have received high scores from Parker for wines made in this style. Parker disputes the notion of growing homogeneity and argues for the opposite: "When I started tasting wines, in the 1970s, we were on a slippery slope. There was a standardization of wines, where you couldn't tell a Chianti from a cabernet. That's pretty much stopped now.".
Because of his powerful influence, Parker has had two château owners offer him the sexual favours of their daughters, and has received death threats. Jacques Hebrard, the manager of Château Cheval Blanc, was once outraged at Parker's evaluation and asked Parker to re-taste the wine. Upon returning, Hebrard's dog attacked Parker as the manager stood by idly and watched. Parker says that when he asked for a bandage to stop the bleeding from his leg, Hebrard instead gave him a copy of the offending newsletter. Hebrard denies that Parker was bleeding.
Wine critic Prial says "The Bordeaux wine establishment feels threatened by these new-style wines... and is engaged in an increasingly bitter fight against Parker and his influence."
Impact on the market
Impact on prices
There is evidence that Parker's rating scale has a dual effect on prices and sales:
- Many customers buy only wines he rates at 90—95 points ("outstanding") or above; this drives the prices for such wines very high. It also makes wines rated 75—79 ("above average") and 80—89 ("very good") hard to sell...even though some of these may in fact be excellent bargains. There is a saying in the wine trade: if Parker gives a wine a score of below 80, it can't be sold at any price; but if he gives it a score above 90, it becomes too expensive for most customers.
- With Parker's great reviews for the 2000 and 2005 Bordeaux vintages, many châteaux raised their prices to unheard-of levels.
- When Parker declined to review the 2002 Bordeaux vintage "in barrel," the vintners were forced to drop their prices.
- According to one Bordeaux shipper cited by McCoy, "the difference between a score of 85 and 95 [for one wine] was 6 to 7 million Euros", and a "bottle rated 100 can multiply its price fourfold."
- Château Quinault, which used to have hard time selling its wine at 100 francs a bottle, saw its 1998 vintage rise in price in half a day to 125 francs after Parker gave it a 92 rating.
- According to a 2005 economic analysis, Parker's scores would inflate the prices of already highly rated wines but, for the less good ones, it would not decrease their sales nor even increase their prices.
Whatever his influence, Parker alone cannot impact the market price for a wine if he is alone against the mainstream. The famous controversy around the Château Pavie 2003 is an example of this: despite Parker's positive ratings, the wine in bottle sold 30% cheaper than
en primeur.
In a statistical analysis published in
New Political Economy, political scientist Colin Hay suggests that Parker has a significant impact on the price of
en primeur Bordeaux wines:
Taking the Saint-Émilion grands crus, for instance, Parker ratings alone account for 33 per cent of the variance in release price and a staggering 50 per cent of the variance in increase in release price between 2004 and 2005. Very similar effects are seen for the Médoc classed growths, with Parker score alone accounting, again, for just over a third of the total variance in release price and 38 per cent of the variance in increase in release price between these consecutive vintages. Moreover, even if we control for position in the official classification, with which Parker ratings are strongly correlated, they account for an additional 8 per cent of the variance in release price and an additional 9 per cent of the variance in increase in release price.
Hay also argues that
Parker's ratings are more influential, and prices more sensitive to his en primeur scores, where...as in Saint-Émilion...the official system of classification is more flexible and less prestigious. But it also suggests how Parker scores may play a crucial role, alongside well-established and highly respected classification systems (as for instance in the Médoc), in building up and, in particular, restoring the reputations of châteaux generally regarded to have fallen below their official place in the classification. In this respect, rather than overturning local classificatory schema, Parker's external influence may well work in parallel with them.
Hay notes that Parker's influence on consumer preferences is not so great as it is on prices.
Creation of new market segments
Parker strongly influenced the creation of
garagiste wines, created by a group of innovative winemakers in the Bordeaux region of France.