The Art Of Sewing A Custom Fit Author:Shirley L. Smith The Art Of Sewing? A Custom Fit is a workbook for the seamstress who wants to sew clothing that fits. Nearly everyone must make some changes to commercial patterns to achieve a custom fit. Industry Standard and Your Body The fashion pattern industry standard for ?A Misses? size is based on a well-proportioned and developed figure, about 5?... more »5? tall, who wears a ?B? cup bra. Dimensions are set forth on the pattern accordingly. However, most women simply don?t fit the basic profile. Rare is the lady, even one with a great figure, who is an average size according to the fashion pattern industry standard. Who among us is average? Nearly everyone must make some changes to commercial patterns to achieve a custom fit. The steps set forth in this workbook involve taking basic body measurements, adjusting and pin fitting the pattern to reflect those measurements, sewing a basic fitting garment, and using the fitting garment to adjust commercial patterns to reflect the individual body differences from the commercial pattern industry standard. Since virtually all American pattern companies, Vogue, Butterick, McCalls, and Simplicity?s fitting garments are virtually the same your basic fitting garment and the dimensions used in constructing that garment can be used to adjust patterns from the different companies. f you use European patterns, Burda, Neu Mode, New Look or Style patterns you have a standard that fits your body to guide you in adjusting those commercial patterns. The basic fitting muslin is used not only to adjust a commercial pattern to the differences dictated by your figure to achieve a great fit, it allows you to test the fit periodically. If you gain or lose weight or have other changes in your body shape, they are immediately apparent and the fitting muslin and your basic pattern can be adjusted to accommodate those changes. The tissue of the basic fitting muslin can be copied, stripped of all seam allowances, hems, and used to draft custom patterns. This stripped pattern is called a sloper. Adapting a commercial pattern as described in this workbook requires no special skills beyond basic sewing knowledge and carefully following the directions and produces great results.« less